Loving Hoi An

Another day in Paradise. We drove for about an hour to the My Son Holy Land. The kingdom dates back to the 4th Century and was the home of the Cham people. The people left the area and it was rediscovered by the French and is now being preserved and restored. It is situated in a steep sided valley and was incredibly hot as there was no wind. The ruins reminded me of the structures in Anchor Wat.

When we were deign to the valley, we saw rice, corn, peanuts rice paper and chillies drying along the side of the road. Unfortunately the bus was going too fast to be blue to photograph them, but it looked amazing. There were also lots of waterlilies growing in ponds along the way.

We came back to the resort for lunch and a break during the heat of the day and then did a walking tour of the old town. Some of the adults caught the 'ferry' from the hotel to the town which was a bit more relaxing than the walk.

We were able to watch some of the local fishermen setting their nets and gave a different view of the town.

During the walk we went to a local Music House.

A Chinese temple.

Complete with dodgy wiring and a scorpion.

Next stop was a traditional Japanese house and the famous Japanese bridge.

Had a few new experiences today. Ella treated me to a facial which was so nice, I could easily get used to it! We also 'splashed out' and spent $2.00 on having some of our clothes washed at Mrs Chou's laundry. When we were on our way back to the hotel, there was our washing out on the side of the road drying.

Still loving the flowers.

Hue to Hoi An

On the road again early, but at least we were in an air conditioned bus for most of the day. We travelled out of Hue city for about 45 minutes before stopping at the Duc Son Pagoda which is an orphanage run by Buddhist Thich Nu Minh Tu nuns. Many of the children in the orphanage has significant disabilities resulting from the use if agent orange during the war. Many of them were disengaged from what was happening around them even though the nuns and careers working with them were clearly very caring. The babies were absolutely beautiful, but sadly we couldn't bring them home with us.

Once we were able to drag ourselves away from the children we drove south toward the Hai Van Pass. After a lunch stop and time to paddle our feet in the South China Sea, we drove over the pass. There was another interesting moment when the bus passed a truck on a blind courier. The drivers seem to think that if they use their horns often enough the opposing traffic will get out of their way! Thankfully there was nothing coming the other way. The top of the pass was just as we remembered - full of very pushy hawkers. The sky was reasonably clear so we could see a reasonable distance.

We wound our way down the northern side of the mountain to Danang, along China Beach, which was a popular R and R spot for the Americans during the war. There has been huge development along the coast since we were here last and there are now a number of huge resorts. Hoi An is just as delightful. The climate is still hot, but with significantly lower humidity levels. Our hotel is on an island and only a few minutes walk to the old town.

There are ponds dotted throughout the gardens and they are full of water lilies and, as we discovered tonight, frogs.

Most of the girls went to arrange to have their formal dresses made by the local tailors. I ended up being in high demand to give advice, which was great fun. They have their first fittings on Friday morning and the dresses will be ready by that evening. Amazing.

For me it was fabric heaven!

The lanterns throughout the town were beautiful, especially as it got darker.

Along the river were women selling paper baskets with a candle in them. Ella and I bought one and sent it off to float down the river with thoughts for our much loved friend BG.

Exploring Hue

Not only was that bed huge, it was also the most comfortable Asian bed I have ever slept in!

The plan was to start out early to avoid the heat. We left the hotel at 8.00 and it was already sweltering with high humidity. Can't imagine what it is like here during the summer.

First stop was the Khai Dinh tomb about 12 kilometres from the city. It was great seeing some of the countryside during the bus trip. We had the most amazing 'near miss' when the bus passed a truck while another bus was travelling, at speed, towards us. Gave everyone a bit of a fright. The tomb is the burial sight of the last emperor of Vietnam.

The mosaic work inside the buildings were amazing.

Next stop was the Minh Mang Tomb. This one covered an extensive area and had some beautiful gardens. Gardena trees grow everywhere.

All along the path were women selling bananas. They were obviously very poor, but always had a smile, even though we weren't buying from them.

Next stop was the Thien Mu Pagoda which is still functioning as a monastery. It was the home of the monk who burnt himself to death in Saigon in 1963 to protest against the way the government discriminated against Buddhists. The car he drive that day is still on display.

Once again, the gardens were lovely.

By these stage, the heat was becoming unbearable.  We were all very pleased to board a boat for a 40 minute boat ride on the Perfume River. The breeze was glorious, as we're the cold drinks that were on sale. The families live on the boats and make a living from tourists trips and by selling souvenirs. The trip was fun but rapidly got over the constant 'hard sell'.

There were lots of working boats travelling up and down the river, along with the tourist boats.

This afternoon we had time to relax and recover from the heat. We went to a local restaurant called Why Not (memories of Whakatane days).  Last day in Hue and we will miss this lovely hotel.

Today Ella and I are feeling a long way from home and from the people who are special to us.

Hue

It was so good to get to our lovely hotel after the train trip. I have the most enormous bed you have ever seen- basically two double beds joined together.it is big enough for a whole family to sleep in!

The heat was really draining, especially after having limited sleep last night. We visited the historical city area including the ancient citadel. It was impressive to see how much progress has been made in restoring the old buildings since we were here four years ago.

The Vietnamese people are so positive and keen to protect and restore their historical buildings. So many of them were destroyed as a result of the different invasions that have taken place, but seeing the buildings being restored in the traditional ways is amazing. The girls went to a restaurant next to the hotel called Little Italy - not exactly traditional Vietnamese food, while we went to a small local restaurant. As always, the food was delicious and so cheap. My very large bed is calling me and I will be very happy to be able to sleep without the clattering and rocking of the train.

Goodbye to Ha Noi

The service at the cathedral was very long and very hot. We only understood a few words but the singing was magnificent. Sitting there with my eyes closed thinking of family and friends was quite special. A few of the group have been unwell over the past couple of days so we decided to opt for a western style lunch. Being unwell on the overnight train would not be a pleasant experience for anyone. After lunch Ella, Alicia and I went for Alastair wander (and shop) before we had to head back to the hotel to pack our bags. I think I have fallen in love with Ha Noi, amidst the 'organised chaos' the locals go about their business with smiles on their faces. There are pockets of serenity where you least expect to see them and the gardens are a treat.

The overnight train trip didn't seem nearly as bad this time. The group took up two and a half carriages and it was much less intimidating being surrounded by familiar faces. Even the toilets weren't quite so bad. Unfortunately there was an accident down the line, during the night which caused delays. We were due to arrive in Hue at 9.15 but current ETA is 12.00.. Already the temperature is increasing and the. Countryside has changed dramatically. A shower is sounding really good.

Finally made it to Hue after 18 hours on the train.

The Hanoi Hilton

Another full on day yesterday and we we all very weary last night. Thankfully there was a bit of a breeze and a shower of rain in the evening that helped to cool things. Had trouble with Internet access last night and am trying to catch up before we leave the hotel this morning.

Yesterday we visited the Ethnic Minority Museum where the 54 different and diverse groups are acknowledged and explained. In the gardens replicas of the houses have been built. It is pretty humbling to think about the conditions these people live in and we complain about how hard the hotel bed s are.

Next stop was the Women's Museum. The displays of the women who fought during the war were impressive, they were certainly strong, capable and scary. I particularly enjoyed the display of fashion through the ages. The modern day traditional costumes are so beautiful.

We stopped for lunch at a restaurant that had more of a western flavour. It was probably a food choice as some of the girls struggled yesterday. I do have to admit that the French pastry and mango smoothie I had were delicious. Not far from where we had lunch was a street full of glasses of various descriptions. A number of people and prescription lenses made. There was a flurry of sunglass purchases. 

Last stop was the Hoa Lo Prison, otherwise known as the Hanoi Hilton. Not much of the prison is left but what is there gives a pretty good idea of what prisoners of all nationalities experienced. There is a pretty 'sanitised' depiction of how the Americans were treated as opposed to how the Vietnamese were treated by the French. The drains that some of the prisoners escaped through were tiny. If I had tried I would have been like Winnie the Pooh!

This wall has been built as a memorial to the prisoners who were incarcerated and the carvings give a pretty graphic depiction of the trauma that was experienced. 

The girls went off exploring again and then found somewhere for dinner. Ella's group had pizza, fries and garlic bread! They also managed to squeeze in some more shopping. i am seriously considering hiring out bag space for the trip home.I went with a couple of parents to a different Vietnamese restaurant. Once again fantastic food, wonderful service and all for about $8.00. I walked around the old quarter for a couple of hours just soaking up the atmosphere. I didn't buy anything - think I will need to get shopping tips from Ella.

We are off to St Joseph's Cathedral this morning as it is Easter Sunday. Could be an interesting experience. I forgot to say that we went to the Water Puppet Theatre on our first day in Ha Noi. Now that was an interesting experience. The music and singing were very loud and high pitched but the puppets were pretty amazing to watch probably not something I would rush back to experience. Not sure when we will get access to the Internet again, but will update as soon as I can.

Cruising on Halong Bay

No Internet while we were out on the bay. The boat the parents were on was old and more traditional - the photo is looking out of my cabin window. The girls boat had been remodelled inside and apparently was very flash. They could even get their nails done and have a massage. Ella opted for neither! We climbed Marble Mountain yesterday afternoon and then kayaked or rowed into a cave that had monkeys clambering all around the rocks. They were so cute. Food on the boats was amazing and both Ella and I were adventurous, or so I am told by her friends. The girls partied last night and we could hear their music on our boat.

This morning we went to another island and climbed up to some amazing limestone caves. The place was crawling with masses of tourists but was still spectacular. Inside the caves it was gloriously cool and coming out again was a bit of a shock. These women were peddling their wares along the jetty while we waited for our boat to pick us up. Back on board we learnt how to make fresh spring rolls which were delicious and then had a demonstration form the cook as to how he made the amazing garnishes for the food. Was fascinating.

The return bus trip was another adventure and we made it back to Hanoi about 4.00. Tonight the girls are going to explore the old town again so I will tag along with them

Halong Bay

Just arrived in Halong Bay. The girls are all on the bigger boat. Weather is very misty so we are all hoping it clears at some stage. The last time we were here the boats were all painted brown.

Bus trip was an adventure as with most driving in Vietnam. A few close shaves but made it safe and sound.

View from the hotel window

Exploring Ha Noi

Today we visited the Ho Chi Minh memorial and the presidential palace. Interesting that his request was to be cremated and yet the government decided to create an elaborate memorial and to display his body for visitors. Quite bizarre really though I wouldn't say that out loud. The bayonets on the guards guns looked very scary. One even looked as if it had dried blood on it! Too much imagination I think. We then went to the museum of literature and ended up in the middle of a graduation ceremony for school students. It was noises and frenetic. Amazing clothes, flowers and pretty awful music. I think our guides were just relieved to be able to gather us all back onto the bus. Lunch was at a cooking school where they train street kids to cook and help them to find employment. Food was lovely and so cheap. Tonight the girls are going into the old quarter for dinner and some shopping and the parents are going back to the same restaurant. The photo is of the largest drum in Asia which is at the Literature Museum.

Day One in Ha Noi

Early wake up this morning before heading to Changing. As expected the check in was as smooth and efficient as you would expect in Singapore. Ella made an interesting observation that Singapore doesn't have any domestic flights. Fantastic flight to Ha Noi Bus ride to our hotel and then off on a cyclo tour of the old town. That was an absolutely amazing experience and I loved every moment of it. The last time we were here I was a bit overwhelmed by the noise, dirt, people and motorbikes. Knowing what to expect this time just made it exciting. Some of the other parents are really stunned by the contrast between here and Singapore. After the cyclo ride we went on a walking tour through some of the speciality streets. Ella did notice the shoe shops! We were then collected by bus and taken to a popular restaurant for dinner. It was a banquet with eight different courses. Some of them were delicious and some not so much. Back at the hotel now, thankful for air conditioning and a shower. Asian beds do 't get any softer that's for sure.

Exploring Singapore

The Singapore zoo was fantastic. It felt like you were in an wildlife park rather than a zoo. No fences or walls and an amazing range of animals.  We could have spent the whole day there. This afternoon the girls had a challenge where they went to Chinatown and had to find and photograph some specific landmarks. After that they had some time for shopping which, as you can see from the photo, they made the most of. We then caught the MRT (underground) to Newtown where there is s fantastic outdoor food court.  Ella was very happy with her chicken satay and garlic naan. I left them there and managed to negotiate my way back to the hotel just as the most impressive electrical storm arrived. The good thing about the storm was that there was a bit of a breeze and the temperature dropped slightly. Thank goodness for my Kathmandu travel umbrella. Kiwi friends, Debbie and Ian were waiting for me in the hotel lobby and we went to a nearby mall for dinner. It was a real treat to be able to spend a couple of hours with them. We are now packing our bags again ready for our 5.00 wake up call in the morning. Flight to Hanoi leaves just after 9.00.

Singapore

Arrived in Singapore last night after a very long and sometimes very bumpy fight.  30 degrees when we arrived after leaving 10 degrees in Dunedin. Hotel is lovely and breakfast was so good.  This is Ella on the balcony of the room I am sharing with a lovely 'Mum' from Gore. Inside it is lovely and cool, but when you open the door it is a very different story.  We are off to the zoo shortly and then I think I will spend the afternoon exploring while the girls head off on an 'amazing race'.