From the Mountains to the Sea

 We've had some adventures during the trip but I think today probably set the gold standard.

It was pretty much a road trip day as we travelled from Berane to Kotor, on the South coast.  Instead of driving directly here, we took the alternative R18 route which was originally built as part of the Yugoslav highway network, spanning Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro and Serbia.  The construction was never completed on the Montenegrin section so it remains a region road and is recognised as a scenic route.  At varies from smooth with two lanes, rough, full of potholes and crumbling away at the edges, to seriously narrow with limited places to pass oncoming traffic.  Thankfully it is not well used so no real issues.  At one point we were so hight that we drove up out of the clouds, a bit like being on an airplane.  The views were stunningly beautiful with the rugged mountains and the lime green spring growth on the trees.  The rock formations created by tectonic and erosion, just seem to tower over everything.  There a warnings to be aware of potential rock falls, on all of the roads.  It was is amazing to see the size of some of the rocks that had already fallen - thankfully none of them onto us.

We have been amazed by the amount of tourism development that is happening, especially in the north of the country.  Climbing up through a mountain pass this morning we drove through a 2,800 m tunnel and on the other side were massive hotels and accommodation in the process of being built, to attract people to the area for skiing. 

For about an hour of the journey we had rain, the first time we had driven on wet roads.  There were lots of touring motor cyclists and some of their riding was almost as crazy as car drivers.  Once we returned to the main highway south the weather improved and it was decidedly warmer.

Kotor is our 'home' for the next few days and the drive down to the bay was nothing short spectacular.  It is a UNESCO listed coastal town and is surrounded by steep limestone cliffs.  The road winds down the steep mountain, toward the bay giving glimpses of the bay, through the trees.  It is also known as the 'city of cats' - I'm looking forward to meeting as many local felines as I can.

Our biggest challenge of the trip was once we had arrived in Kotor.  There had been an accident on the main road into the town and traffic was completely stationary.  GPS provided an alternative route which involved us driving along a narrow (and I mean seriously narrow) road right on the edge of the bay.  The resulting traffic jam was like nothing we have ever experience before.  Cars trying to drive in both directions, others parked, blocking the already skinny road, and others trying to turn around.  Everyone was impatient and trying to squeeze past each other.  It took us an hour to travel less than two km.  We were pleased to avoid scratches or damage to the car and with the wing mirrors still intact.

That was part one of the challenge.  The second part involved trying to find our accommodation.  We followed Google maps which got completely confused and ended up in some pretty precarious situations.  Once again squeezing past cars, concrete walls and steep roads.  In the end I got out and used GPS to walk the alleys, until we found the apartment and David was able to follow me.  We are still talking to each other, the car is undamaged and the apartment is lovely, so the final outcome was positive.

Tomorrow we are seriously considering doing all of our sightseeing by walking so that we only have to negotiate our way out of here when we leave on Thursday.

No Bears

We woke up to sunshine this morning but sadly that didn't last very long, and it was really chilly.  Almost had to ditch our shorts!

There is a ring road that starts from Zabljak, the Durmitorski Preston, and climbs to over 1,900 meters at Sedlo Pass.  David had warned me that it would be challenging and he wasn't joking.  The road is really only a single line and seriously windy.  The local drivers are crazy and drive incredibly fast, considering the road conditions.  We got part way up on the 'good' road, before having to turn back because of snow - turning was a challenge in itself.

Once we had negotiated our way back down, we went to the Black Lake, which is supposedly one of th highlights of the National Park.  It must be spectacular on a fine, calm day, with the reflections of the surrounding mountains.  Sadly today it was cold and the cloud cover was low.  We had to pay for parking and the guy collecting the money tried to charge us double, until we challenged him.  Even then, the receipt he gave us was less than the five euros we paid - guess it's one way to make additional income from the tourists.

The decision was made (not necessarily unanimous) to drive from the other end of the Durmitorski Preston.  I thought the earlier drive was scary but it had nothing on the second part.  There was honestly nothing between us and the plummeting cliffs, especially when trying to avoid oncoming traffic.  The views were spectacular, as were my anxiety levels!  We didn't go to the top but what we did see some amazing vistas.  

Heading South-West, we drove over more mountain passes and through beautiful valleys.  Lunch stop was beside the Tara River, with its incredible clear aqua coloured water.  The area around it is obviously a popular tourist destination, with a zip-line, rafting and various other adventurous activities.  The bridge across the river was having some serious work done on it and was controlled by traffic lights.  When we crossed, we were dodging the workers, tourists and the massive amount of scaffolding erected over the middle of it.  OSH would have had a field day in New Zealand.

Berane is our stopover for the night and was where our previously booked accommodation had a fire and we had to change plans.  We had chosen this area because there are a number of national parks nearby, but when we arrived, it just seemed like a large and very grim town.  After going for a walk we realised that it isn't nearly as grim as first thought and the river Lim flows through the town, though one of the poorest areas in Montenegro.  A lot of the local industry has closed down over the past 15 years and agricultural production has decreased as well.

Thankfully the host of our apartment sent us video instructions as to how to find the place.  Not convinced that we would have been successful without them.  It is in an apartment block that looks seriously dodgy from the outside, but is absolutely beautiful inside.  Probably on of the nicest places we have stayed during these travels, which is a real treat.

As we travelled away from the mountains, the weather has improved and is significantly warmer.  Our puffer jackets are packed away ready for our return to London, later in the week.  Apparently there are bears in Montenegro but we haven't seen any.  David assures me that it is a good thing.

Mother's Day

 Saturday just seemed to roll on by and I realised that I hadn't completed an update.  We spent most of the morning helping Ella to complete her weekend 'chores'.  More visits to the laundromat!

There was a minor panic when we received an email from our Montenegro accommodation for Monday night, notifying us that there had been a fire and our booking was cancelled.  Thankfully, as it's shoulder season, we had no problem in finding an alternative place to stay.

We met Amira for lunch, Ella's oldest friend after they met at daycare when they were three.  Amira has always been a special part of our whanau and it was wonderful to spend some time with her.  She lives 'out East' so it was also a part of London that we haven't really explored.  The weather was absolutely stunning which just added to the enjoyment.

Having packed our bags, we set off for Gatwick airport where we spent the night at  hotel inside the terminal.  It was literally a box without windows and, with the lights off, completely dark.  Easy to see why it is popular though as we were able to get up at 4.10 am, shower and be at the checking counter by 4.30.  

Mother's Day

Didn't plan this part of the trip well as we flew out early to Montenegro so didn't get to spend Mother's Day with Ella.  She did surprise me with some treats yesterday though and a hug is the best gift ever.

Our Wizz Air flight was supposed to leave at 6.10 am but think we were about 25 minutes late, landing in Podgorica.  It was fascinating looking at the country side as we flew in - high rugged mountains dipping down to long flat valleys.  Arriving at the airport reminded us of Rotorua years ago.  Disembarked and walked across the tarmac and people waiting to board standing behind a wire fence - felt very unsophisticated.

Another rental car, this time a new Renault Clio - it even smells brand new.  Very exciting to get an auto as we thought it would be a manual.  One less thing to think about when driving on the wrong side of the road.

Shops, including supermarkets, are closed on Sundays but we managed to find a bakery that had the most enormous slices of pizza, to keep us going.

Our first stop was the Ostrog Monastery near Niksic.  It was built in the early 17th century, against an almost vertical rock face, high up in Ostroska Greta and is dedicated to Saint Basil of Ostrog and is the most visited pilgrimage site within the Serbian Orthodox Church.  It is traditional for pilgrims to walk the 3 km stoney path barefoot - we didn't!  The climb felt like hundreds of steep steps, as was certainly a good workout.  There were a number of other, smaller churches around the area with beautiful ornate pained ceilings and walls.  Unfortunately it was Sunday and two days before the celebration of St Basil's birthday, so it was pretty crowded.  Well worth the stop and the effort though the tight, narrow, winding road was a bit hair-raising. 

Driving further north we called in to see the Ramparts of Onogost in the village of Niksic.  The walls were built on the foundations of a former Roman military camp from the 4th Century.  Some of the original walls are still standing and they are open to the public to visit at any time.  An open air theatre has been established amongst the ruins.

The rest of our drive included a winding road with plenty of tight hairpin bends, that took us above 5,000 feet, before wending our way back down to the valley on the other side.  There were a couple of tunnels along the way and I did think that they could have built more to avoid some to the interesting driving we witnessed.  The locals have a very 'relaxed' attitude to the importance of staying on the correct side of the centre line.

Zabljak is our home for the night and is in the entree the Dumitor mountain region, at an altitude of 1,456 metres.  It was a relief to arrive and to find that we were expected, especially as there is limited English spoken.  Apparently the area was predominantly farming but many people moved away.  There is huge development taking place as people are trying to get ahead the tourist boom.  It feels very like Croatia did when we visited 15 r so years ago, before the crowds arrived.  The buildings all have steep pitched roofs and are very cute.  Our cabin is in a row of four, on a farm, and has a lovely view across part of the valley.

Dinner was delicious gyros, overflowing with chicken and salad.  So far we are loving Montenegro and are very pleased that we took Ella's advice and planned a visit.

Admin Day

 Not much excitement today but was a great opportunity to catch up on some 'admin'.  Bit of a lazy start, except for Ella who had an early gym class, before work.  I think the people at the local laundromat now consider us to be locals!

Trip to the supermarket before we went to a flat viewing, on Ella's behalf.  It is an eye-opener seeing just how expensive renting is in London.  The one we saw today is a possibility that she is going to think about over the weekend and is in a lovely area.  It would be great to get something sorted before we head home.

We walked back from the Bayswater, about 40 minutes, which was a pleasant way to end a very relaxing day, while completing plenty of steps.  David cooked fried rice for dinner and I met Ella at the station - an absolute treat to be able to walk her home.

Dorset

 We farewelled Weymouth this morning.  Not the best place we have stayed, but perfect for exploring the south coast.

Our first stop was a visit to Old Harry's Rocks located at Hardfast Point.   We walked about four miles, return, along the Coastal Pathway, from Studland Bay, to view the chalk sea stacks.  They are part of the Jurassic Coast UNESCO World Heritage site.   The view was spectacular and, once again, the water was crystal clear.  While we were there I started chatting to a lady and, as part of the conversation, she realised that we were from New Zealand.  Small world, her daughter and family live in Queenstown and they have visited on multiple occasions.  

Next stop was Corfe Castle, a fortification standing above the village, on the Isle of Purbeck peninsula.  It was built by William the Conqueror and dates back to the 11th century.  It was one of the earliest castles to be built with earth and timber.  Work in underway to preserve some of the ruin with its spectacular views across the valley.  The visit was topped off by a steam train chuffing along the tracks - quintessential England.  David has a link with Corfe as his uncle John lived there until he passed away.

We had planned on visiting the village of Tyneham where, in November 1943, the residents were given 28 days to leave their homes when the military requisitioned the area for training purposes.  The villagers were told that they could return once the war was over, but they never did.  It is now managed as a heritage site by the Ministry of Defence.  Unfortunately it is closed when the firing range is in use and, sadly, today was one of those days.

As we meandered our way back toward London, we stopped of at Kingston Lacy, another National Trust property.  It was a huge country house and estate near Wimborne Minster and belonged to the same family for over 300 years.  The rooms were huge with high ornate ceilings and heavy, dark furniture.  Hard to image people living there until recent times.  The groups were expansive with manicured lawns and with gardens reflecting different styles.

Onward, through Winchester, to Heathrow to safely drop off the rental car.  Even with GPS rush hour traffic made it pretty stressful.  The good thing was that we were able to navigate our way back to Queens Park where Ella had a delicious dinner waiting for us.  Loved our expedition into the English countryside.

The Coast

 Today was a wonderful reminder about how we never tire of driving through the English countryside.  Lots of new growth and wild flowers, interspersed with picturesque villages, such a treat.

Our plan was to visit Rouston Cliffs, part of the Exmouth to Lyme Regis (didn't see Richard Gere) National Reserve. We found the public path to walk to the cliffs but discovered that it passed through the Royston Estate.  As it is private land, we had to turn back and moved further down the coast.

Next stop was Beer Beach, just because of the name!  It turned out to be a quaint little fishing village that we absolutely loved exploring.  The beach was very rocky with not a grain of sand in sight, like may of the beaches on the south coast.  This clearly doesn't stop it being a holiday destination, with the colourful beach huts and deck chairs waiting for the summer tourists.  We saw lots of holiday cabins dotted along the cliffs - some looked like they would be pretty grim in wild weather.  Part of the Jurassic Coastal Walkway went through Beer Village which we walked along.  The glimpse of the coast were amazing ad the water was crystal clear probably due to the lack of sandy beaches.  We met a ginger cat who enjoyed a chin scratch as much as I enjoyed giving it.

We roughly followed the coast road back toward Weymouth, in search of lunch.  At one stage we were on a stretch of road with a 70 mph speed limit, and ended up following a couple of tractors with trailers full of grass for silage.  Everyone just slows down and patiently waits until the opportunity to pass, in true English style.

Our last adventure of the day was a visit to Durdle Door, a natural limestone arch near Lulworth.  Well worth the visit but I wasn't happy with the 12 pound payment for parking which we discovered as we were leaving.!

The track down to the Durdle Beach was closed due to storm damage, but we were able to get a fantastic view from the cliff tops, along with hundreds of other people, and it was a Wednesday afternoon.  Not sure where they all came from!

The neighbouring bay, called Man O'War Cove, was accessed by a series of steep steps, which we did manage without too much puffing.  The stand out from both beach visits was that there were people swimming - crazy!

Dorset

 An early start to get ourself to Heathrow to pick up the rental car.  This time we have a Vauxhall Mokka - another model that we have never heard of.  I think Ella will be relieved when we go so that she doesn't have to be woken up so early.  

We headed West to Chepstow which is on the boarder with Monmouthshire, Wales and Gloucestershire, England and is located on the River Wye.  To be honest, the river is pretty ugly as it's tidal and brown.  The Castle sits on a clifftop above the river and is seriously impressive.  It is said to be the oldest surviving stone castle in Britten and it's huge.  We wandered through the old town and enjoyed the different styles of cottages and some very loving tendered gardens.

During our trip we stopped at a supermarket and were introduced to the delights of a 'meal deal'.  Absolute bargain:  a snack, a main and a drink for less than four pound!  We had heard about them before but never actually tried.  A quick and easy way to eat on the run.

The forecast wasn't great but by heading West, we managed to stay out of the rain that was falling in London.

Our route took us through the outskirts of Bristol.  I had always thought of it as being very industrialised, but we did pass some pretty buildings, green areas and the Avon River as it flows through the city.  There was a lot of traffic which made our journey rather slower than planned.

Once out of Bristol we loved driving through the rolling hills and lush green countryside.  The GPS took us some interesting detours, including down tiny narrow lanes with hedges on either side.  Always interesting to negotiate your way through with on-coming traffic.

We are planning on spending a couple of days exploring the Jurassic Coast world heritage site and Dorset, so are staying in Weymouth for the next two nights.  It is a seaside township popular for its sheltered harbour.  In true English fashion, there are Bed and Breakfast places and boutique hotels everywhere throughout the town.  Along the waterfront are small casinos and an amusement park, complete with a range different rides.  It is easy to imagine strolling along the promenade, during summer, with thousands of other tourists.

Dinner tonight was cod and chips - an easy decision as we are staying beside the sea.  It was delicious, but I think kiwi chips are better.