Borris or bust...

This country just keeps on getting better.  We have worked out the weather here, the forecast always predicts it to be better than it actually is!  This morning we had mist and drizzle but that eventually cleared to a stunningly beautiful, warm and sunny day.
First stop was Carrigadrohid Castle to the west of Blarney.  It is of the beaten path and the castle ruins sit alongside the river, with a stone bridge connected to it.  Only a handful of houses and an old 'apple tower' (in case you were wondering where iPhones come from).  Originally built as a folly for entertaining, it was used to store apples in more recent times.  Enjoyed seeing some of the early wildflowers appearing amongst the moss growing on the stone walls.
Had our city experience by visiting Cork.  Bit of drama trying to park but finally managed to get into a parking building that we think was built for leprechauns - the parks were seriously small, as were the entrance and exit ramps.  The London Market was sensory overload with sights, smells and sounds abounding.  Couldn't resist trying roast potatoes, Irish sausage and fried onion topped with delicious relish.  It was so good and I don't even particularly like sausages or fried onion!  Wandered through some of the city streets enjoying the different buildings jammed into narrow lanes and alleys.  As we drove out, the views along the river were equally impressive.
Along the coast to Cobh (pronounced Cove and previously known as Queenstown) located on the Big Island.  This is definitely a tourist destination, but thankfully we are early in the season.  A classic stone church with a commanding view over the the village and the bay and then steep streets with colourful terraced houses tumbling down the hillside.  The sun shone and you couldn't help but smile at how pretty it is.  Lots of fishing boats along the harbour edge, with seafood restaurants in abundance.  This was the last port that the Titanic visited so plenty of places named after the ship and shipping company.  Also a memorial to the Lusitania a luxury passenger liner that was sunk by a German U-boat in 1915.  Pretty sobering reading about how many lives were lost.
We walked some of the Ballycotton Cliff Walkway, which certainly helped blow any cobwebs away.  The sunshine was warm but the wind was not.  Lots more wild flowers starting to bloom along the path and some spectacular views of the rugged coast line.  Quite a bit of mist about but still pretty spectacular.
Heading toward our home for the night, we stopped off in the outskirts of Kilkenny to visit Aimee MacRae, daughter or our old neighbours, Graham and Annette.  It was so nice to see her and her wee boy CJ and catch up on their news.  I have a hug to deliver when we get home.
Tonight we are staying in Borris, about 30 minutes from Kilkenny.  It is another historic village with an impressive railway viaduct, old station, mill, wheat store and Borris homestead.  The viaduct is only a few minutes walk from our wee terraced house Air BnB and we caught it with the setting sun shining.  Suspect that David will have captured some great photos.  Lots of things to see as we head to Dublin tomorrow for our last night is this beautiful part of the world. 

To the sea....

 After a surprisingly cosy night in our tiny cabin, complete with some of the local mouse population deciding to hold sprint training in the ceiling, we set off to head west to the coast.  Sadly the sunshine of yesterday had deserted us and we had drizzle and low cloud for much of the morning.
Most of our journey followed the Ring of Kerry, a well known tourist route, but we only saw a couple of tour buses and few people.  Stopped off for an explore in Cahersiveen where there are some old barracks that look as if they should have been in Germany.  The huge grey stone church in the centre of the township had a beautiful stained glass window and a real sense of peace about it. We saw a funeral procession walking through the town with locals lining the sides of the road to show their respects.  The roads were lined with terraced houses painted different colours making the town look a little like a rainbow.
Followed the coast around to Kenmare, known for its old butter factory, with plenty of sight seeing stops along the way.  The mist had lifted a bit, but the wind was seriously cold.
Driving over the Caha Pass from Bantyr,was spectacular with its steep windy road and tunnels cut through the rocks.  Low fog and mist limited our views but was still a great drive to Schull. 
Out to the coast which was our furtherest point west and an opportunity for David to take drone photos of the coast.  That part of the trip took us on more seriously skinny roads.  The locals go so fast.  As Ella says, you have to 'think skinny' as you pass them.
Set out for Blarney, our home for tonight.  I missed a turning and we had to take an alternative route which took us on a farm track, full of potholes and mud.  No wonder the farmer gave us a funny look as we passed him along the lane.  Finally found our Air BnB, on the outskirts of Blarney and it is called 'Humblebee'.  Lovely wee spot that does have an indoor toilet and shower and a washing machine and dishwasher - luxury. 
Trip to the supermarket on the edge of Cork to hunt and gather food for dinner and a quick drive back though Blarney township.  We won't be joining the crowds to kiss the Blarney Stone, but will enjoy the old town before we depart tomorrow.

Heading south west to the gap...

Woke to a beautiful morning with no wind and blue skies.  We left our cosy loft and meandered our way to a number of ruined castles and churches but found that most of the were on private property so not able to get close.  Travelling through the countryside is an absolute treat.  Quite different from England and with definite similarities to New Zealand.
We have a bit of history of rental car dramas and managed to keep this going today.  I was driving on the motorway when the dash lit up with a startling collection of warning lights and messages, that would not go away.  When we finally managed to contact the company they advised us to go to Shannon airport where we could exchange the car.  The detour took about two hours in total but was a much better option than having to return to Dublin.  A replacement car was waiting for us so we are now driving a Renault Clio - slightly bigger than what we had and goes well.  Our detour took us through Limmerick which, even though it was quite a big city, was sill interesting to travel through.
Back to our journey and we drove though the village of Adare. What a stunning looking place, with different coloured buildings and some very clever advertising. Clearly a popular place on a sunny day as it was full of people.  
We then headed for Rathkeale to look at the ruins of an Abbey.  As we drove though the town I noticed the number of caravans and the fact that there were horses grazing in a field in the middle of the houses.  With a bit of investigation we discovered that almost half of the town's residents are members of the 'travelling' community. It was really quite fascinating - there must be plenty of money in 'travelling' as the houses and caravans all looked rather fancy.  
Had a few challenges finding our Air BnB for tonight and we ended up on some crazy narrow lanes before we finally found the place.  It is interesting, to say the least.  Two small (seriously tiny) stone cabins, one with a bed  and two chairs and the other with a kitchen and dining table and one wall made of large boulders.  The toilet is a composting one, down a pathway, by a field.  It really does feel like we are in the middle of nowhere, but Killarney is only 8 miles away.
Not far from here is the Gap of Dunloe, a narrow and very windy road that travels around the bottom of Lough Leane.  It was a stunning if somewhat hairy drive as it is only the width of one car, but is two way.  Most people were pretty good about making space but there were a few tense moments!
We joined the road that forms part of the Ring of Kerry and enjoyed some spectacular views of the Lough, from the other side.  Walked up to the Torc waterfall with it's moss covered boulders and surrounded by trees with their fresh new spring foliage starting to appear.  The water colour shows the impact of it's journey through peaty ground.
We went to the supermarket in Killarney before heading back to our cabins for dinner and an evening sitting around the heater.
An observation about Ireland - the people we have encountered have been so kind and friendly, especially to a couple of old Kiwis who get lost, can't figure out how to get into the public toilets and set off the alarm in the supermarket!

Adare

Traveller Town

Our Tiny House

Ireland at last...

We were up early to get our bags packed and the house tidied before leaving for the airport.  Ella drove us to Hammersmith where we caught the train to Heathrow.  It was just a little nerve wracking having to think through the process by ourselves, after having Ella with us when we flew to Iceland.  Thankfully it all worked!  In the past, whenever we have travelled, I have always been pulled aside to be scanned and searched.  Today was the first time it happened on this trip but I had the whole lot - scan, frisking, explosive and drug testing - must have a really guilty face.
Flight was interesting (what we could see through the clouds) as we didn't really think about how much of the journey was over the UK.  Surprising how little distance actually separates the two islands.
Easy transit through the airport including a very friendly security officer who helped us into the correct line, after recognising our 'Kiwi' passports.
Collected our rental - a Toyota Aygo - it's tiny, and heading south west toward Nenagh near Tipperary.  We tried to avoid the toll roads and ended up on some smaller ones that gave us a better view of the countryside.  It's easy to see why people love visiting Ireland - it certainly is the Emerald Isle.
Our AirBnB is about 5 km from Nenagh and it a loft above a garage behind a beautiful (modern) stone house, set on a acre.  The hosts are delightful and have even offered to sort payment on a road toll that we couldn't avoid.
We went into Neagh and wandered around the village, exploring some of the old buildings - cable, church and prison - that would have been a seriously grim place to be incarcerated.  
Light was starting to fade so we headed back to our cozy loft for an early night.

Sight seeing and the Rocket Man

Yesterday morning we travelled to Soho to meet up with my niece Jay, who moved to London 23 years ago.  It was great to see her looking well and happy and to catch up on her news.  She was a long distance runner and has recently started running again, a great connection for Ella as she trains for her next half marathon.
From Soho we walked to Westminster Quay where David and I boarded a sightseeing cruise on the Thames.  Even though it is definitely a tourist attraction, seeing the city from a different perspective was a great experience.  On our walk to the Quay, we went through a park near Canary Wharf, which was surprisingly empty and very pretty.  It was great to see Big Ben from a different angle as typically we have viewed it as we walked across the bridge toward it.  The boat took us as far as Greenwich - the stories of life on the river over the centuries, were quite fascinating.
We could have returned on the boat, but decided to tube our way back to speed up the journey.  Surprisingly we managed to find our way back to Queens Park and meet Ella at the supermarket.  Home for Ella to prepare dinner for the family, when they arrive back from Grand Cayman, on Saturday afternoon.
As a surprise for David, Ella had organised tickets for an Elton John concert at the O2.  We joined the crowds heading that way and had seats in front of the stage, row 20.  The show was absolutely fantastic and being so close made the experience even better.  The trip back was an experience with thousands for people trying to move about the city on the tube.  A wonderful evening indeed.
Over the past few days we have been trying to change our address on our Lloyds Bank account and order new debit cards.  As per usual the process wasn't easy but finally achieved when we went to a branch in Kensington.  Quick trip back to Harrods and a brief walk in Hyde Park, before it absolutely poured down.
In my quest to find the perfect hot chocolate, Ella took us to Knoop, where you select the strength of chocolate, marshmallows and whipped cream, if desired.  Have to admit that their 49% dark/milk combination was pretty darn good.
We caught the bus to Kensington High Street which was a thoroughly enjoyable journey.  Drove past Kensington Palace and it was a little disconcerting seeing Police officers walking the streets with automatic guns at the ready.  Had a look around St Mary Abbots Church, which is in the high street and has the highest spire in London.  Bluebells and tulips were just starting to bloom in the grounds around the church.
Again, we managed to negotiate our way back to Queens Park, using the bus, as there were 'significant' delays on the tube.  Love travelling at the top of the double decker bus and just enjoying the different buildings we passed by.
Went with Ella to get groceries in preparation for the family's return and there is an egg shortage here as well!
Bags are sorted and online check in complete for our Ireland adventure that starts tomorrow.